Im trying to change my bearings in my carrier. The axle will not slide out. Are there snap rings behind the seal preventing the axle from sliding out? Every thing is stock and its a Yamaha warrior 350 atv. Please answer Thanks|||Well the fact your still having problems means I didn't do what i should have on the first go round of seeing your question. You need a service manual, you can get one here online for cheap. It has pictures and everything. http://www.cyclepedia.com/yamaha-raptor-鈥?/a> This way you'll know you did it right and can fix problems later also.|||well if there is a snap ring it will be where you can see it and get it off so behind wouldnt be.. could be on inside of gear box maybe|||Worse than any Hidden Snap Ring .
There's a Spacer Tube on the Axle,,Between the Bearings,,,Inside the Case.
It has become Rusted to the Axle.
The axle is supposed to be a Slide Fit thru the bearings.
Axles and Bearings virtually NEVER freeze together.
But it also must Slide thru the Bearing Spacer,,,,which grows roots to the axle.
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To get it OUT,,,,
obviously the Axle will not slide thru as intended.
You are going to have to either BEAT It out,,or PRESS it out.
There's very little chance you'll be able to break the bond between Axle %26amp; Spacer.
So Expect the Spacer to push the Bearing out of the case.
It comes OUT by hitting or Pressing on Sprocket Side of Axle,,,and out thru the R/H Brake Side.
The seal's press fit is Tight-ish.
Pry the R/H Brake Side Seal and Dust cover Out of the axle carrier case.
That reduces the Force required because Bearing must Come out ,,,while STUCK to the Axle,,,and it wont have to drive seal along with it.
Re-Install the Wheel Hub on the L/H end of the Axle,,Sprkt Side.
Only That hub,,nothing else.
Get a short piece of pipe that fits OVER the end of axle,,,
but Buttts- against the Nut/Washer Seat of the Hub.
Beat on that Pipe with a Big Hammer,,Sledge Hammer.
You can get a pipe at any hardware store for cheap.
1" or 1.5" Diameter a Foot long should do.
Also get a CAP for the pipe,,to have something to Hit on besides a Hole in the pipe.
Might wanna get a big Washer to between the Hub and Pipe for a "seat" so ya dont mess up the spline intersection @ Hub /Axle.
You shouldn't beat the hell outa it.
If it's REALLY tough,,,,get a LONG pipe to fit over the Other side of Axle and up against Bearing.
Buttt that against something SOLID,,,like a Tree,,,,or a bord on the ground,,,etc.
That "AxleCoverPipe" will take all the force,,,and not your axle carrier case,,rear susp.arms,mounting hardware,etc.
OR,,,take it to a autoparts store that presses on axle bearings,,,or a bike shop,,,,and have them Press the axle out.
You can rig up a press all sorts of ways,,,using a puller body,or a bottle jack----but I'll skip that.
"If I gotta Tell ya how,,,Ya got no bidness doing it"-----good way to get hurt BAD or damage something while Learing the Hard Way.
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It MIGHT come out Easy,,
Or turn into a Prize Fight %26amp; be a full 15 round slugfest.
If it's gonna be Too Tuff,,,,take the Stripped Down axle assembly to a shop ,,to be Pressed out.
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OLD,,,"re-claimed" spacers are better than NEW ones.
Because after getting them cleaned-up inside,,,,they are far less likely to seize-up again.
New ones are Cheap %26amp; Easier.
Coat the Axle and the Inside of the spacer with a Bunch of heavy grease is all ya need to do to keep it from happening again
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Here's a Picture
http://images.powersportsnetwork.com/fic鈥?/a>
#19 Spacer is stuck to #11 Axle,,,
while Inside the #18 Case ,,,trapped Between the 2- #20 Bearings.
Beating/Pressing on Left End of axle makes Axle slide thru Left Side Brng like normal,,,
While the Stuck #19 Spacer drives the R/H #20 Bearing OUT of the Case,,
allowing axle to come Thru %26amp; OUT.
Soak the spacer in penetrating oil.
And Beat it all up%26amp;down it's length to break up the rust.
If you want to SOAK the spacer,,,
Get a long plastic bag,,
Push the axle THRU the Bottom,,,and slide bag over spacer.
Twist the bag Tight around axle and ducttape it,or wire-tie it tightly to seal upon axle.
Twist Bag around axle to reduce "Ballooning " so Less Oil is required to Fill the bag.
Fill the Bag ,,,stand axle on end%26gt;%26gt;check back later after soaking a while.
Real penetraing oil is Pricey @ enough quantity to fill the bag.
ATF mixed with Charcoal lighter fluid works Great.
Plain Diesel does also.
"Lamp Oil" ,,kerosine,,all that sorta stuff does work OK,,and is Cheap
Good Luck
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I Forgot to mention,,,
Yamaha is the TYPO KING.
Looking at the Parts Drawing,,,which IS genuine Yamaha from a different source,,,
The Locknuts on the axle which tighten against the Sprocket Carrier are MISSING in the photo,,,LOL.
Any publication from Yamaha,,,,ALWAYS be Skeptical of the accuracy of both TEXT and Illustrations.
They screw-up more than probaly everybody else put together
Here's an '87 Parts Diagram.
Note the 2- #25 SprocketCarrier Retainer Nuts.
http://images.powersportsnetwork.com/fic鈥?/a>
Originally ,,Yamaha use Spanner-Drive RING NUTS.
They had back-off probs with 'em.
So they Superceded the part and now use Regular HEX NUTS.
When they made the Change,,,they DELETED the Old Ring Nuts from the Engineering Drawing,,
but failed to pencil-in their Replacement,,the new HEX nuts.
So instead of displaying the WRONG Nuts,,,,it doesn't show ANY nuts at all in that position.
In some situations,,that could be Not as comical as it sounds for anyone trying to fit their bike %26amp; not knowing what all goes where.
DO INDEED put the Nuts there,,,Yours should already have the New Hex ones.
And once more,,just for sake of repeating%26gt;%26gt;%26gt;
Axle MUST go OUT in Correct Direction,,,ONLY goes thru ONE Way.
The RIGHT Direction is OUT the RIGHT Side.
Right direction to go back IN is Thru the RIGHT Side.
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